Today
Guy and I got out of the hotel late and grumpy. We had a nice
breakfast at Cafe Blume on Fontanestr., about 3 blocks from our
hotel. The breakfast itself was very nice, it included some
croissants, cheese, butter, jam, ham and orange juice. Afterward we
headed to Schlesisches Tor to rent bikes to start our bike ride day,
but alas, things don't always go as planned. We found a few bike
rental places that were out of bikes, one that offered crappy bikes,
one machine that rented them by the minute, and when we finally got
to the bike place that I initially set my heart on - we found out it
was closed.
After some mild distress on my part
especially, I had the idea of going to rent bikes in the "bike
salon" that is not far from where I once lived, and with which I
had a very positive experience in the past. We rented two bikes which
we had to bring back by 1900. The bikes were very good quality ones,
even the one I got (other places often just try to give me shitty
kids bikes since I am not a very confident rider and have to be able
to reach the ground with my feet). After we got our bikes we headed
to Tiki Heart Cafe, which is just across the canal, not far from
Goerlizer bhf.
Guy says: I'll take it from here! Note
on the title; the Spree (pronounced "shpray") is a river
that goes all through Berlin.
We only found a bike at the sixth shop
we looked at. The store owner said he would be gone in half an hour
to go kayaking, and would be back at 1900 to 1930 for us to return
the bikes. That left us a very specific schedule to keep. First we
went to Tiki Heart Cafe for burgers. The cafe has unique decor in an
islander theme with tiki masks, along with grungy punk-rock-style
staff. The menus are also very interestingly designed and we spent a
lot of time looking at them. They were mostly in English but with a
funny mix of German words in the descriptions. I ordered a bison
burger and it was hard and not very good for me (my stomach protested
strongly for a couple hours after) but Leia enjoyed her beef burger.
Leia forgot her hat there and we returned to pick it up on our way to
return our bikes in the evening.
We rode our bikes along a canal towards
Treptower park. We tried to enjoy it but we both got bruised a lot by
bumping into the metal pedals of the bikes, or when they fell on us.
Berlin's roads seem very well-designed for cyclists, with a bike lane
on the big roads or wide sidewalks (often with a bike lane on them)
elsewhere. The cyclists can go pretty fast but we generally took it
easy and enjoyed the shade and the scenery where we could. On the
sidewalk we saw a dog walking himself, with the end of his leash in
his mouth. His owner (presumably) was walking alongside nearby. The
canals mostly smelled like sewage to me, and we passed over them a
few times by bridges. Leia was guiding and did not take necessarily
the most direct route, but we went through some parks. When crossing
the first bridge we saw our bicycle renter and his friend in a kayak
below us.
Originally our objective was to go to
Spreepark, which is an abandoned amusement park (like Euro-Disney)
that was overgrown and Leia wanted to see. Sadly due to time
constraints and its position outside the scope of our maps, we did
not get there. Instead we ended up in a large grassy park with a huge
monument to fallen Soviet soldiers. Since my stomach was hurting from
the burger and the bike ride was strenuous, we took a break there to
rest on the grass and read a bit. Then we cycled around the monument
and made our way back.
We took main roads on our return which
put us in the street next to traffic a lot. That was very scary for
me, besides having to inhale all the smoke from cars on the street
and smokers on the sidewalk. At one point a "VIP tour" bus
parked in the middle of the street to offload a lot of
fancily-dressed people, while everybody behind him honked and a line
of bicycles got stuck. Frustrated, I went onto the sidewalk, but at
that point Leia realized we'd gone too far on the wrong road anyway
so we had to cross the street and backtrack a short way. Later in the
street, she almost ate a bee. She wobbled, braked, and fell out of
control in front of me, but she did also ring her little warning bell
on her bicycle while she was crashing. Every car should be equipped
with those bells instead of horns: they are loud enough to scare
pedestrians but they make such a comparatively pleasing sound. The
bike fell on her and she hurt the same knee she'd fallen on
yesterday... but she was able to keep going.
At 1815 we were 15 minutes late for a
date with M', a French friend of Leia from her German class. We had
drinks and Belgian waffles with sugar powder (there was no maple
syrup for me) and cherries in syrup for Leia. That was our dinner. M'
arrived only at 1830 and we invited her to a waffle so she and Leia
could catch up. Sadly we had to leave at 1900 to be sure of getting
our bikes back in time. Then we picked up the hat Leia'd forgotten at
the burger place and returned the bikes. The shopkeeper remarked with
disappointment that I didn't look very happy. I was just sweaty from
cycling hard and on edge from the traffic. The bikes were actually
pretty nice and new.
Back at the hotel we showered and then
went to sit in the steam sauna, which must have been the best part of
our day. We idled away all the evening and began packing, so when I
realized it was 2300 there was no point in trying to find any dinner.
We went to bed around midnight to get a good night's sleep before our
flight.




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